Maintenance

First of all, it is important to understand that using a polish product offers no protection against moisture, chemicals, or sunlight. Its only real effect is to provide a nice shiny appearance to the surface of the furniture.

If you appreciate this result, like many homeowners, you can regularly polish your furniture robindesbois.com. However, keep in mind that polishing remains strictly aesthetic: it is only a visual effect, with no real protection for the wood.

All our table tops are made of solid wood or veneered on medium, with solid wood molding depending on the model you choose.

But whatever their construction, like any varnished wood surface, they will not withstand repeated attacks from chemical products designed for scrubbing.

The repetition of this action will, month after month, chip the varnish surface and open the wood pores, weakening it.

Instead, use placemats, which can be cleaned more aggressively and replaced over time.

To keep your furniture as impeccable as the first day, it is essential to dust them regularly. The accumulation of dust can ultimately cause more damage than one might imagine.

For example, if a surface exposed to the sun is covered in dust, the natural discoloration of the wood can become uneven, leaving unsightly marks on the finish.

To prevent this, use a duster or a soft lint-free cloth, ideally once a week. If your ventilation or air conditioning system poorly filters the air, more frequent dusting may be necessary.

When you're busy doing housework, it may seem easier to place your cup or glass on a piece of furniture rather than on the countertop. However, this habit can leave irreversible marks: condensation seeps into the wood and damages it.

If you absolutely must place a drink on a piece of furniture, always use a coaster or a bottle coaster.

Solid wood is a living material that naturally absorbs and releases moisture. Air that is too dry can cause it to shrink or crack, while air that is too humid can cause it to swell or warp. To preserve your furniture, maintain a stable humidity level (40 to 55%), avoid sudden environmental changes, and keep it away from direct sources of heat or air conditioning. Be cautious of thermal shock caused by hot air blown too close to a large solid wood surface.

To lessen a dent, apply a few drops of water on the area so they penetrate the wood fibers. As they swell, the fibers can rise and reduce the mark. However, avoid this method on scratches.

Warning: always ensure that the treated part is solid wood.

A light sanding with medium-grit sandpaper, done in the direction of the wood grain, can effectively smooth out a light scratch on a solid wood piece of furniture. This method helps to soften imperfections without damaging the surface.

After sanding, it is important to apply an appropriate finish or varnish to protect the wood and harmonize the overall appearance of the furniture.

This technique is ideal for regular maintenance and the repair of superficial scratches, ensuring the longevity and beauty of your furniture.

Yes, repair kits are available in specialized stores. They often contain sawdust and glue to mix and fill the scratch. Note: the exact shade may be difficult to reproduce.

The website: https://produits-dugay.fr offers a set of markers that we have tested.

In the case of a deep scratch on a solid wood piece of furniture, repair often requires more than just touch-ups. After cleaning the area, you can fill the scratch with wood filler or a mixture of sawdust and glue suited to the color of the furniture. Once dry, gently sand to smooth the surface before applying a finish (oil, wax, or varnish) to protect and harmonize the appearance.

However, it is preferable to entrust the repair to a professional specialized in the restoration of solid wood furniture. These experts have the know-how and the appropriate tools to effectively address this type of damage and ensure a durable repair while preserving the value and beauty of your furniture.

In case of irreversible damage, consider recycling your furniture to give it a second life while respecting the environment.

For robindesbois.com furniture, simple solutions often exist for renovation: using paints loaded with Meudon white, like those from the brand Annie Sloan, or applying thick waxes. These methods are easy to use and allow you to bring your furniture back to life. It is rare that a robindesbois.com piece cannot benefit from an appropriate restoration solution.

Follow these steps in order, turning each screw in small increments.

1. Level the furniture (pads/adjustments): a door can misalign if the cabinet is tilted.

2. Identify the 3 adjustments on the hinge:

   • Lateral (left/right): moves the door closer to or further from the edge of the cabinet → used to equalize the gaps between doors.

   • Depth (flush): moves the door closer to or further from the inside of the cabinet → to ensure the front is flush.

   • Height (top/bottom): often on the hinge base (or via oblong slots) → aligns the tops of the doors.

3. Make small corrections:

   • Close the door after each adjustment to check the result.

   • Aim for a regular gap of 2–3 mm between doors/cabinet.

4. Tighten to a "firm without forcing" torque all the fastening screws when the alignment is good.

5. Soft-close (if present): some hinges have a damper adjustment (more/less resistance).

6. After moving or the first few weeks of use, perform a check-tightening.

Tips & Safety:

• Do not confuse adjustment screws with fastening screws (do not overtighten the latter).

• If a door remains misaligned, recheck the level of the furniture and the squareness.

• If the threading is damaged, use an appropriate insert or contact our customer service with the product reference.

Follow these checks in order (drawer emptied for safe work):

1) Level the furniture: a tilted cabinet causes drawers to rub. Adjust the feet and check with a spirit level.

2) Check the slides on the cabinet side: they must be installed at the same height, properly parallel, and firmly screwed. The oblong holes allow for small lateral or height adjustments.

3) Remove and then properly reinstall the drawer:

• • Ball-bearing slides: fully open, press the tabs (left often upwards, right downwards) and remove the drawer; to reinstall, align it straight until it clicks.

  • Undermount: unlock the levers/clips under the drawer, pull straight; reattach by clipping the fasteners.

  • Remove the Safety features inside the drawer at the back of each side. They prevent the drawers from falling if pulled too far. They look like small metal pieces less than 2 cm long.

4) Adjust the front and parallelism:

• • • Height: use the eccentrics or screws on plates (often under the drawer or at the back) to correct a left/right slope.

    • Lateral: slightly loosen the slides on the cabinet side (oblong holes), recenter to achieve a regular gap (≈ 2–3 mm), and tighten.

    • Depth/flushness: move the front forward/backward using the plate adjustments so that it is flush with the cabinet and closes without bouncing.

5) Soft-close (if present): push the damper pistons fully empty to resynchronize them; dust the rails, do not lubricate with oil (risk of clogging).

6) Load & usage: adhere to the load capacity per drawer (see sheet/instructions) and distribute objects evenly.

Still rubbing? Check that the front is not in contact with an edge or neighboring handle, and that screws do not protrude inside the rail.
If a slide is bent or jammed, contact our customer service with the product reference: we will offer a suitable replacement part.

The functional gap (small visible space between two doors and between a door and the cabinet) is intentional. It allows for:

1. absorbing the dimensional variations of the wood (and panels) due to humidity and temperature;

2. avoiding friction and catching during opening/closing;

3. ensuring the proper function of soft-close systems and latches/magnets.

Usual References (may vary depending on model/door height):

1. Between two doors: approximately 2–3 mm.

2. Between door and cabinet frame: 1.5–2.5 mm.

3. Large (tall) doors: tolerance increased to 2–4 mm to compensate for seasonal movements.

Even with veneer fronts on a stable core, a gap is still necessary. Slight differences in gap between the top/bottom or left/right are normal and do not affect quality.

If the gap becomes uneven after a move or over time:

1. Level the furniture (pads/adjustments).

2. Adjust the 3D hinges (lateral, depth, height) by small quarter turns.

3. Check that nothing is rubbing (handle/edge).

After moving, it is common for a door to appear misaligned.

Several factors explain it:

1. Installation : the vibrations during transport and leveling in a new environment (floor not perfectly flat) cause the settings to shift.

2. Wood movement : wood is a living material; the humidity/temperature of the new place can cause slight variations.

3. Functional clearance: a gap of 2–3 mm between doors/cabinet is normal and intentional to prevent friction.

What to do (5 minutes of adjustment)?

1. Level the furniture: adjust the glides/feet and check with a spirit level.

2. Tighten the screws: a control tightening of the hinges/bases is often sufficient.

3. Adjust the 3D hinges:

   • Lateral (left/right) to equalize the gap between doors,

   • Depth (flush) so that the front is flat,

   • Height (on base) to align top/bottom.
     Proceed by quarter turns, checking with the door closed.

4. Check magnets/latches: move the housing forward/backward if the door bounces.

5. Allow to acclimate: in the first few days, the furniture naturally stabilizes.

Material reminder: our furniture is made of real wood (oak, acacia, pine, rubberwood); knots, color variations, and more or less pronounced grain are natural and do not affect quality.
Need help? Our customer service can guide you step-by-step at +33 (0)9 86 33 85 85.

1. Prepare: empty the furniture, place it in its final location. Work in pairs for heavy furniture.

2. Check the level: place a spirit level (or a ruler + level) on top in both the front-back and left-right directions. Also check the plumb of the uprights (front).

3. Adjust the glides/feet (if present): screw/unscrew each glide to raise/lower the support point until the bubble is centered in both directions.

4. Without adjustable glides: slide rigid and thin shims (plywood, PVC, or carpenter's shims).

   • Avoid cardboard or soft shims that compress.

   • Prefer two small opposing shims rather than one large one under a single corner (better support).

5. Long/heavy furniture: check the central leg (if it exists); it should bear weight after adjustment to avoid sagging.

6. Final stability: the furniture should rest fully (no "rocking"). Add non-slip pads if the floor is slippery.

7. Check the hardware: slightly tighten hinges/slides then refine alignment (doors/drawers).

   • Recommended gap: ~2–3 mm between doors and in relation to the cabinet.

8. Safety: for display cabinets/columns or in the presence of children, secure to the wall with the anti-tip kit suitable for the type of support (plasterboard/brick/concrete).

9. After 48 hours: recheck (the shims/floor may compress slightly).

Tips: on thick carpet, ensure a flat support (wider glides, possible cutting of the carpet under the feet). Avoid shimming only at the front: distribute the supports to avoid twisting the cabinet.

Before Starting

• Wall fixings are not provided as they depend on the type of wall. Only the anti-tip slings are provided.

• Use a sensor to detect cables and pipelines. Wear PPE (glasses, gloves).

• For columns, display cabinets, and high furniture, fixing is highly recommended (child safety).

• You will need a drill with an appropriate bit, a hammer, and a screwdriver.

1) Identify Your Wall

• Plasterboard (hollow partition): plasterboard on a metal frame (studs).

• Solid/hollow brick or cinder block.

• Concrete (solid).

2) Choose the Right Anchor (common examples)

• Plasterboard: Molly/expansion anchor for light to medium loads; for heavier loads, aim for the metal studs (located with a sensor) or use toggle anchors.

• Hollow brick / hollow cinder block: special hollow expansion nylon anchor or plug + chemical sealant (resin) with a mesh.

• Solid brick / concrete: quality nylon anchors or drive-in anchors/concrete screws; for high loads: chemical sealing.

3) Install the Kit (bracket/angle/anti-tip sling)

1. Mark your points (level/squaring).

2. Drill to the appropriate diameter for the anchor (concrete drill for minerals; metal/wood drill not needed in plasterboard).

3. Install the anchor (expansion/sealing according to the instructions).

4. Screw the bracket/sling to the wall side, then to the furniture side (do not fully tighten before the final alignment).

5. Tighten and check: the furniture should not tip over; distribute heavy loads at the bottom.

Best Practices

• Respect the working load of the fixing accessory and follow the instructions.

• In plasterboard, prioritize attaching to studs for high/heavy furniture.

• If in doubt (heterogeneous, old, stone wall), consult a professional.

Remember: Every wall has its solution; an unsuitable anchor can tear the support. Our customer service can guide you on the type of fixing to use according to your situation.

The payload depends on the model (dimensions, material, type of support) and is specified on the product sheet or in the manual.

To use your furniture safely:

1) Distribute the weight evenly (avoid point loads).

2) Place the heaviest items at the bottom of the furniture (sideboards, display cabinets).

3) Respect the span: the longer/deeper a shelf is, the lower its load capacity.

4) Type of shelf:

- Wood (solid or veneer on E0 MDF/plywood core): better load capacity than glass of the same dimensions.

- For reference: For a panel 2.2 cm thick and 1 meter long by 35 cm wide supported only by 2 sides of 35 cm: The recommended payload is 25kg distributed (or 30kg maximum load).

- Tempered glass: lower payload; handle without point impacts.

- Adjustable shelves on pegs: often have a lower load capacity than a fixed (structural) shelf.

5) Warning signs: if you observe visible bending or cracking, lighten it immediately.

Additional notes: on large furniture, adjust the central leg (if it exists). For tall furniture/display cabinets, secure to the wall (anti-tipping kit).

Specific cases (hi-fi, vinyl records, dense library, aquarium, heavy collection): contact us before installation to confirm load compatibility.

Where to find the exact info? On each product sheet/manual, the payload is indicated by element (top, drawer, shelf). If no indication is provided, our customer service will guide you: +33 (0)9 86 33 85 85.

Material reminder: our panels and components are selected with strict criteria (E0 for panels); however, wood remains natural (knots, color variations, grain) and these aspects do not alter the quality.

First of all: ensure that the furniture is level and that the fronts are adjusted (3D hinges / drawer parallelism). Misalignment hinders the damper.

A) Doors with invisible hinges (integrated soft-close)

1. Locate the damping selector on the hinge (lever dial ON/OFF or 2–3 positions).

   • Low position = more free (softer) closure.

   • High position = more marked brake (against “slamming”).

   • On small, light doors, you can disable a damper on one of the hinges to prevent the door from “sticking” and staying ajar.

2. Adjust the 3 axes of the hinge:

   • Lateral (2–3 mm gap between doors), Depth (flush), Height (top/bottom alignment).

   • Proceed by quarter turns and test with the door closed.

3. Magnets/latches: slightly move the housing forward if the door bounces before the end of the stroke.

4. Stoppers: add felt/PU pads if a “sharp” contact persists.

B) Drawers with soft-close slides

1. Resynchronize the dampers: fully open then firmly close 2–3 times with the drawer empty.

2. Front adjustments (depending on model):

   • Height and lateral via eccentrics/plates (under the drawer or on the front).

   • Depth / flush to ensure the drawer finishes its stroke without touching the cabinet.

3. Load & friction: respect the load capacity; remove any object that jams. A load that's too heavy slows down or prevents the damper from engaging.

4. Rail cleanliness: dust off; do not oil (oil clogs). If the manufacturer allows, use only a dry lubricant (PTFE).

5. Assembly: check the front/rear clipping, the identical height of the slides on the cabinet side, and the squaring.

When to call customer service?

• If your model doesn't have a damper selector, if it slams despite adjustments, or if a piston is stuck: contact us with the product reference for a compatible spare part.

Yes, on many models. The cabinets are often drilled in 32 mm increments to allow the shelves to be raised/lowered on pegs.

• Types of pegs: steel pins, pegs with sleeves, or rack-and-pinion systems depending on the range.

• Proper installation: position the pegs at the same height on the left/right (and front/back if there are 4), insert the shelf flat, then lower it until it is fully supported.

• Load capacity: it varies according to the material, span, and thickness. Refer to the product sheet/manual; if unavailable, distribute the weight and avoid concentrated loads.

• Fixed shelves: some are structural (e.g., center brace) and not adjustable – indicated on the sheet/manual.

• Safety & stability: place heavy loads at the bottom, secure tall furniture/display cabinets to the wall (anti-tip kit), and ensure the shelf is not overhanging.

• Glass vs wood: tempered glass generally holds less weight than a shelf of equal dimensions; handle without impact.

Need specific capacity per model? Contact customer service with the product reference: +33 (0)9 86 33 85 85 (Mon–Fri 9am–12:30pm / 2pm–5:30pm).

Magnets and latches keep the door closed without any unwanted play and prevent accidental openings due to wood variations or vibrations. They complement the hinges (with or without soft-close).

Common Types:

- Retaining magnet (metal plate on the door + magnetic casing on the cabinet side): adjustable pressure by moving the casing forward/backward.

- Roller catch: pressure adjustable via the central screw; more "mechanical" closure.

- Push-to-open (pusher): the door opens by pressing; requires precise alignment and consistent gaps.

4-Step Adjustments:

1. Level the furniture and adjust the door (3D hinges: lateral, depth, height) to achieve a consistent 2–3 mm gap.

2. Position the magnet/latch: center it so that the door is flush without forcing.

3. Adjust the pressure:

   • If the door bounces before reaching the end (soft-close too strong) → reduce the brake or slightly move the magnet forward.

   • If the door reopens by itself → increase the pressure a bit (or move the magnetic casing back so it pulls more).

4. Cushion the contact with discreet felt/PU pads for a silent closure.

Best Practices:

- Make small quarter-turn adjustments and test with the door closed.

- Avoid excessive pressure (risk of long-term deformation or hindering the soft-close).

- In the case of natural wood (oak, acacia, pine, rubberwood), slight seasonal variations are normal; occasional readjustment may be necessary.

Yes. The varnish reflects light more or less depending on the angle of lighting, the grain texture, and the level of gloss (matte/satin). This phenomenon is optical and does not affect the quality. For a more uniform appearance: adjust the light source, avoid grazing lights, and dust with a microfiber cloth (without harsh products).

• A slight visual bow may appear depending on the span, the support on the ground, and the hygrometric variations. Ensure that the furniture is perfectly level; distribute the loads evenly. For longer lengths, check for the presence/adjustment of a central leg or a reinforcement. If the curvature progresses, lighten it, allow the furniture to acclimate, then recheck.

Always use trivets, coasters, and placemats to protect the wood. Wipe up any hot/greasy/coloring liquid (coffee, wine, oil, standing water) immediately. Avoid aggressive waxes/sprays; prefer a gentle, non-abrasive cleaner. Finishes provide daily protection, but they do not replace precautionary measures.

Place felt pads (high density) under objects/seats, avoid abrasives and the sliding of heavy objects. Clean with a slightly damp then dry soft cloth. On surfaces, use appropriate placemats/coasters and avoid abrasive dust (sand). In case of micro-scratches, a touch-up kit can improve the appearance; always test in a hidden area.

Yes. A slight odor may be noticeable in the first few days (wood, varnish, packaging). It dissipates quickly with good ventilation. Our finishes are applied according to a controlled process. Open doors/drawers, ventilate for 24–72 hours, avoid storing in a closed and humid room.
Material reminder: wood is natural — knots, color variations, and grain patterns are not defects.

Our furniture is designed for temperate indoor use. Avoid very humid or poorly ventilated rooms (bathroom without extractor fan, unheated conservatory, outdoors). Humidity and thermal shocks can cause warping, cracks, or swelling of the panels. Maintain a stable environment, wipe water immediately, and allow for ventilation.
For a project in a humid area, seek our advice before purchasing.

Yes. UV rays and light can age wood and fabrics: a shade may lighten or yellow slightly depending on the type of wood (oak, acacia, pine, rubberwood) and the finish. Avoid prolonged direct sunlight, periodically rotate the objects placed (lamps, vases), and use a sheer curtain if the bay window is highly exposed.
Natural variations do not affect the quality.

Leave some ventilation around the devices (amplifier, box, console) to dissipate the heat. Use the provided cable passes; if you need to create a new opening, make a clean cut (hole saw), centered and of small diameter, without touching the studs. Avoid completely enclosing the electronics, group the power supplies and cables so as not to obstruct the closing of doors/drawers.

Tempered glass is more durable than ordinary glass, but it is susceptible to localized impacts on the edges.

• Load capacity: always lower than wood for the same dimensions — refer to the product sheet. Load evenly.

• Installation: ensure proper support on pegs/shelf brackets; check that no screw protrudes under the shelf.

• Maintenance: soft cloth/microfiber, no abrasive.

• Safety: in case of impact or chip, replace the shelf; do not attempt to use it if cracked.

Soft cloth microfiber, slightly damp then dry. Neutral non-abrasive cleaner if needed. Avoid solvents, ammonia-based products, alcohol, hot steam, and abrasive sponges. Coasters/placemats recommended.

Setting up the assemblies and acclimatization to the humidity/temperature of the dwelling. The noises will diminish in a few days. Ensure a perfect level and tighten the screws slightly after 2-3 weeks.

Yes, if the center distance (distance between holes) matches. Avoid re-drilling; otherwise, use a plate/center distance cover. Tighten moderately to avoid marking the facade.

The key is to protect the wood uniformly: applying the finish (oil, wax, varnish) on all sides, including those that are not visible, limits imbalances. Additionally, placing the furniture in a temperate environment and avoiding direct sources of heat or humidity (radiator, bay window, bathroom) reduces the risks.

Yes, very soft rugs can create an uneven support (risk of swaying). Ensure perfect leveling; avoid thick rugs under tall/narrow furniture. Pay special attention with the York shelf.

Pieces from different areas of the wood (orientation of the grain, density, finish uptake). These natural variations contribute to the character of the wood and do not alter the quality.

Empty the furniture, remove shelves/glass, protect the edges, carry with two people, do not slide.

Set it back level and adjust doors/drawers if needed.

For dining tables, first remove the extensions and fold the table before any movement.

They support large spans (buffets, beds) and prevent sagging. Adjust them in contact with the ground (slight pre-tension) once the furniture is level.

On extendable tables, they are essential.

Yes with a watertight saucer. Immediately wipe any overflow to avoid stains and local swelling. Prefer pads under rough pots.

Use an equivalent screw (diameter, length, threading/material) to the one in the instructions. If in doubt, contact the customer service with the product reference for a compatible dispatch.

Yes, but limit the cycles. Tighten moderately to preserve the housings; replace worn screws/inserts. Check the squareness upon reassembly.

Industrial gluing offers very good durability. Avoid extreme heat/humidity and impacts on the edges. In case of an accident, contact the after-sales service: depending on the case, re-gluing or replacement of the edge.

Yes, recommended. Place the heavy loads at the bottom and secure to the wall with the anti-tip kit. Essential with young children or uneven floors.

No. Extreme thermo-hygrometric variations = risk of warping, cracks, and peeling. For temperate indoor use only.

These are the shelf positions (often 32 mm). They allow for adjusting the height of the shelves. Covers can hide the unused drill holes.

Tighten to a moderate torque. If the housing is worn out, use an insert or a slightly longer/wider screw (depending on the material). Check the leveling and alignment (3D adjustment).

Indoor atmosphere moderate and ventilated, away from direct heat sources and without prolonged humidity. Avoid thermo-hygrometric shocks; dust regularly.

A wax on varnish can leave a film and alter the appearance. Prefer a gentle cleaner that is non-abrasive. When in doubt, test in a hidden area.